To realise a dial of this complexity and emotional weight, WH&C and Selten turned to Master Qin — Selten's in-house engraver and enamelist, whose background spans gem-setting, enamelling and the restoration of vintage enamel pocket watches. It was a restoration project that first ignited his passion for metal engraving, an art he taught himself and pursued with dedicated focus ever since.
The face of the timepiece is a hand-engraved Fumé Grand Feu enamel dial — a marriage of two of the most demanding disciplines in traditional watchmaking.
Step 1 – 8 Hours of Hand Engraving
Working under a microscope, Master Qin maps the silver disc into approximately 80 individual rectangles. Inside every rectangle, he carves over 40 parallel lines by hand using a razor-sharp tungsten graver. His dominant hand drives each cut at an unyielding angle to achieve a mirror-polished, bright-cut finish, while his other hand rotates the heavy ball vise at micro-angles so every stroke flows without interruption. The bright-cut engraving technique derives its brilliance from the contrast of mirror-polished engraved lines. Each rectangle is engraved in a deliberately different direction to the one beside it — and within each rectangle, Master Qin varies the depth and pressure of every cut to create intentional shadows. Together, these two layers of contrast ensure that as light moves across the surface, each facet gleams brilliantly while the next retreats into shadow, creating a dial with extraordinary depth and texture that shifts and shimmers with every movement of the wrist. It is what makes the bamboo weave feel alive.
Approximately 80 rectangles. Over 40 lines each. An estimated 3,500 individual cuts per dial.
A single misstep completely destroys the plate, forcing the artisan to start over from zero.
Step 2 – 7 Hours of Grand Feu Enamelling
Then comes the trial by fire. Enamel can yield three distinct visual finishes: transparent, translucent and opaque. For Yum Cha, a highly transparent enamel was chosen specifically to accentuate the intricate engraving beneath it. Master Qin evaluated an extensive library of physical enamel swatches from specialised suppliers to find the perfect colour — settling on a raw powder that appears a muted beige before the kiln reveals its true character entirely. Washed repeatedly to remove any trace of impurity, the enamel is meticulously applied by hand, then fired in the kiln at 800°C, then removed, cooled and inspected before the next layer is applied — a painstaking cycle repeated a minimum of eight times. The slightest variance in temperature or thickness risks air bubbles, cracking or warping the silver foundation entirely.
In the kiln, the powdered glass melts into a rich, dark brown transparent layer. The true mastery, however, lies in how the light passes through this medium. Because the enamel is highly transparent, the underlying silver foundation dictates everything. A standard, dull silver plate would merely yield a flat, dark brown finish with no internal life. But beneath Master Qin's skilful bright cuts, light is caught and reflected back up through the coloured glass like thousands of microscopic mirrors.
Step 3 – 1.5 Hours of Hand Polishing
Once cooled, the dial must be meticulously hand polished — a rigorous process requiring 1.5 hours of completely steady, uniform pressure to achieve its final flawless lustre. This exacting final step coaxes the deep fired brown into a radiant, luminous honey-gold at the centre, while the glass settles thicker at the curved perimeter to produce a rich, smoky amber rim.
In direct light, the thousands of bright-cut facets ignite, the dial blazing golden through the amber. In softer light the fumé deepens, the transparent enamel reveals its intense liquid depth and the surface becomes quietly alive. It is never quite the same twice — like a memory you return to, it shows you something different every time.
Because every line, angle and groove is cut purely by human hand, each dial is entirely its own — a one-of-a-kind interpretation of a shared memory, carrying its own distinct character into the world. No two will ever be the same.
The Yum Cha dial is the result of more than 20 prototypes with a combined rejection rate above 40%. Approximately 16.5 hours of craftsmanship for each surviving dial — and behind every one, Master Qin's focus, patience and refusal to compromise.